Burning Plastic, French Dreams, and Chocolate Cake for everyone!

Sometimes I forget how hard it is to get people to “change” their ways or make them understand a better way of doing things “differently.” Fabrice and Fabienne came to my house to help me learn how to use my new African stove that takes charcoal. I think it is extremely hard and tedious to get started. Previously I had seen many people start them by burning plastic bags all in the middle of the charcoal – I was not about to try that. All people do here is burn or dump their garbage…the smell of burning plastic is far too common here. Fabrice and Fabienne could not understand why I wanted to burn the paper pieces I had torn up instead of plastic. They kept saying things like “This is Africa” “This is the only way to do it” But I kept insisting that we start it with paper. I know that in Rwanda they have banned nearly all types of plastic bags so I asked them how people in Rwanda got their charcoal to start without charcoal! I tried to explain to them how bad burning plastic was and that the fumes were poisonous but they didn’t seem to understand.

Here is a tour of my house:

On Saturday (18) I went to the Soccer Without Boarders training near the school to play football with the kids from school. Instead I just talked to Bonji (a local who helps out and could possibly be getting a job with SWB). Afterwards some of the boy from the school came over to try to make paper – it was a complete failure. The frames I had made for me were way too big and didn’t fit into the wash bin were the paper was soaking. I searched all day long to try to find a wash bin large enough but it was nowhere to be found! The holes on the screens were too big, and we didn’t press out enough water so the papers came out like soaking wet mushy blobs. We are going to try again in a week or so.

I finally had my first French-speaking dream!! I don’t remember much of what was said, but I was at Richellie Park in Hurley, Wi with Ellysa Aijala, we were talking French together and she knew more French than me (even though she is a Spanish speaker).

When it rains, it pours... and then the electricity goes
out for the rest of the day.

Work never stops for the women (and some men) of Africa. Every morning by 6am the girls near my house they are cooking, washing clothes, bathing their little brothers/sisters, cleaning, etc! Even when it’s torrential down poor – they are still busy doing things while putting out buckets to collect what rainwater they can.

I audited one of Teacher Jacobs science classes for P5 so I could see the teaching style of Uganda. It’s hard to have authority here because the kids are beat by everyone –parents, friends’ parents, relatives, teachers, etc. I won't lay a hand on the kids, so I have no treat to them. When Eddy was walking home, he broke his 1,000ugx ($0.50) sandals. I fixed them with some duct tape when we got to my house and he said, “Thanks, now my mother won’t beat me.” Kind of shocking, and happy I could prevent a beating.

On Tuesday (21) I woke up early so that I could go with Perrine to the Owino Market in Kampala to buy some things for dinners. They cook for me at least 2-4 times a week so I wanted to buy them some food. That market is the most insanely stressful and overwhelming market I have ever been to. It is about 100-200 different venues on about 2 blocks or less or space with people from 20km away coming to buy or sell things in the countries capital. This market makes me NEVER want to live in Kampala – the city is far too crazy. I headed back early and made it in time to teach my 2 Environmental classes (my first day with P7) and my English class. 

I let the neighborhood kids have some fun with my camera
while Daniella played with my hair.

There are two people who work at HOPE school who have malaria right now…guess its pretty common – and one you have it I was told you will always have it. Good things my net is secured around me nightly and I haven’t forgotten a day of my malaria pills!

They had fun posing

Them they found "frames" on my camera.

I left Thursday (23) for Jinja and picked the wrong Matatu/taxi to take me. It was only 4,000ugx (last time the guy ripped me off and made me pay 10,000ugx) but it took over 2 hrs and we stopped all along the way! Matatus are these large 14 passenger vans (usually carrying more like 17 people) that either travel short or long distances – it is like a shared taxi. Ones around town stop as often as every 50-100 meters to pick people off or drop them off. In the taxi park in Kampala you can usually find one that goes right from Kampala to Jinja (about an hour drive) but I got on one that brought people anywhere in between Kampala and Jinja – so the entire ride the money collector (there is 1 drive and 1 money collector) had his head and hands out the window yelling something in Lugandan trying to fill up the seats of the taxi – we were constantly stopping to see if people needed a lift – sometimes we would pick them up and other times drop off people…it was not fun.

Paul had a massive spider bite/infection on his leg when I arrived. He told me it had been getting worse but when I saw it…wow! Looked pretty painful. Jane (his boss) and I finally talked him into going to the doctor (and not listening to the guys at the bar and letting them cut it open) so he could get professional help. I don’t want to go into details but he is on antibiotics now and is doing much better after the minor “surgery” and antiseptic at the visit to the doctors. He can't work for a few days because it’s a huge hole that needs to heal without dirty river water. 

This is a video of a bota ride when I went tubing with Paul's company - Zen Tubing - they are crazy little motor bikes that don't really obey the few traffic law that exist.

I ordered a chocolate cake for my birthday. Paul and I are heading back to Kampala then Ndejje sometime tomorrow (Sunday the 26th). I am going to bring it to Perrine’s house Sunday night and invite Jacques and his family and maybe some boys from school over to celebrate with us. Then on Monday (the date of my real birthday), after classes, Paul and I are going to go into Kampala to find a place to eat. I am very excited, because I think we found a place that serves margaritas… I really miss margaritas.

Next week I am going to introduce a coloring contest to the students in P5-P7 – winner gets their artwork as the logo for HEAL (Healthy Environment and Living) – Uganda. Which is the name of the organization that Jacques, Paul, and I are trying to start in Ndejje. We are also planning to start a compost area behind one of the buildings for the school. The students will help dig/build that as well. We think its important for them to be very involved for the whole process – start to finish – so that they can see the whole project.

A new "smart" start.

My house is slowly becoming my home. I finally got a broom and some other things for the house. I also bought an African stove, one which runs on charcoal. I was getting too fed up with the camping stove that I brought because it was scorching all of my pans and making everything black! I still need a place for my guests to sit though as well as a shelf for my clothes and books.  Its hard for my to justify spending money on all these things for my house because I will be leaving in October; and like my Dad has always told me – “Money doesn’t grow on trees.”

People are constantly trying to rip you off here in the small markets and stores. When they see muzungu (white person) they see money. Its outrageous what some people reply when I ask the price of something…they must think I’m stupid.

Percy/Piercy, mother of Fabienne or Fabrice (its hard to tell because there are 2 families living in 1 hours and there are about 11 children), braided my hair on Saturday. I look like a real African now! It took 6 ½ hours…I sat on the cement the whole time! 

My new SMART hair style!

Jacqueline from the Kamaba Co-op finished my skirt for me!! It is so beautiful. I look very ‘smart’ now. Instead of telling someone they look “nice” or “sharp” like I have heard previously, here they say “smart”. For example, when all the teachers and students saw my new hair-do and my new outfit, I had people telling me all day, “Toni, you look smart!!” It’s a great compliment to receive.

On Sunday I did many things around the house and also went to Jacques to help him with his resume. Him and his family have visa offers for Canada and will be immigrating there in the next couple of years.

Paul came to visit on Monday (13) – I met him in Bujagali and we took a boda to Jinja and then a bus from Jinja to Kampala - - that was the worst bus ride of my life haha. I picked up some more fabric in Kampala so that I could get more smart clothes for the school; as a teacher I am expected to dress a certain way. Thankfully we made it back to Ndejje before dark. After I showed him my house we walked to have dinner at Jacques house. Jacques briefed Paul on the idea for the environmental campaign for the community and the following day they met at school and sat down together to do some real planning. HEAL (Healthy Living and Environment) Uganda is the name of the organization and they both have many great ideas that will change Ndejje.

I taught my first Environmental Education class on Tuesday (14) and it went pretty smooth. I was extremely nervous but thankfully there was only about 15 children in P-6 so that helped calm my nerves. My schedule is finalized now: Monday-Thursday 2-4(or 5 depending on class size) I will teach English to adults Tuesday 11-12 I teach Environmental Education (EE) to P-6, right after that from 12-1 I teach P-7 and then Wednesday from 11-12 I teach EE to P-5. Joseph, a Congolese man who I previously mentioned said he would be interested in tutoring me in French. We have put up a tentative schedule or tutor times for Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 12-2. This man is very inconsistent though, so we’ll see how well these lessons stick. Paul left Wednesday (15) morning after one last breakfast together.

I feel like the relationship here between the Ugandan Nationals and the Refugees (from Congo, Burundi, Sudan, Rwanda, etc) is similar to some American’s views/relationships with Mexican immigrants. Some Ugandans accuse the refugees of stealing their countries money and work for their people. I have heard of a few fights between the nationals and refugees, one which left my friend in critical condition and on oxygen for nearly 3 weeks. It was 30 men vs 1.

There are many organizations and NGOs that I have read about previous to arriving in Uganda who say that they are helping refugees and doing many things for them – but I am seeing first hand their lack of efforts and their lack of help! These organizations lie on their websites…such as BARC of Uganda. I didn’t realize how drastically life has changed for many of these refugees. Many refugees only receive help if they are living in a refugee settlement – but those are extremely unsanitary, they increase dependency on aid, and are very “dead-ended”. Fabrice went from having a father very high ranking in the military, his own Jeep, two bodyguards, and enough money to not have to worry about things – to fatherless, jeepless, living in a small 2-bedroom house with 12-15 other people. To cope with problems that many of these refugees experience, I have notices that many turn to alcohol. I am trying to influence them to find another solution.

Yesterday (16) Ashal, Eddy and two other boys from P4 stopped over my house after school. They really wanted to be in the EE class but I am only able to teach P5-P7 so I told them that on the weekend I would teach them some things and then we could also do some of the “reuse” activities that I was planning on doing in class. I figure this way I can also practice they activity before class. Today after school they are coming over with a bunch of paper to soak in water over night so that tomorrow, after we go to football at HOPE, we can go to my house to make paper.

Paul and I both became very sick yesterday. I think it was something we must have ate during his visit. Neither of us feels 100% but we are recovering. I was in and out of the bathroom all night - - and if being sick isn’t bad enough…trying being sick when your toilet is a hole in the ground, that makes things 10x worse!

My birthday is in 10 days and I will be going to visit Paul in Bujagali for the weekend. If possible we want to either go to Sipi Lodge, Murchison Falls, or Rwanda for the weekend. I am trying to utilize my time best – splitting it between lesson plans, homework, and studying French.

My new home in Ndejje, Uganda.

Six Days in Jinja and Bujagali!

      I landed into the Entebbe International Airport about an hour behind schedule on the 25th. Paul was there waiting to pick me up :) He helped me pack my things into the taxi and we were on our way! There is no road that connects Entebbe to Jinja so we had to go all the way through Kampala which was a giant unorganized hectic traffic jam. But, Paul had a pineapple in the car and sliced it up for us as we drove.

     The first thing I noticed about Uganda was how green everything is! It looks much different than Tanzania and is full of trees, farms and shrubs. As we road through Kampala the traffic "was not bad" but it took us nearly an hour just to make it through the city. They have a very crazy way of driving here an I am extremely surprised I haven't seen an accident yet. There are motor vehicles of every size that constantly spew out gallons of black exhaust (there are no smog tests here), followed by small motorcycles called "bota-botas". Botas are the fastest (but not the safest) way to get around town. Behind the drive you will see 2 goats and a person, 3 large bags of cement with a woman holding a child, or even 3 more men for a total of 4 on the bota. It is absolutely insane to watch these guys zip through traffic. Then you also have a mix of bicycles carrying obscene amount of things as well as well as the common and random men women and children who are walking. Driving does not look fun.

     Wednesday (25) was spent walking around Jinja and getting to know the area. The patters of the fabric here about absolutely stunning!! I cannot wait to get a few outfits made by the tailors in Ndejje. Jinja is the second largest "city" (it is considered a town) in Uganda and is known as the adrenaline capital of East Africa. I also noticed the lack of infrastructure throughout the town. Only the main roads are paved, there is trash everywhere, there is burning trash piles everywhere, and no trash cans!

     Thursday (26) we took a bota to Bujagali and I was able to go kayaking with Paul for a little bit. Bujagali is were Nile River Explorers (NRE) and Zen Tubing (Paul's company) operates from. It is a beautiful small village full of other "muzungus" (foreigner) and many volunteer opportunities.

     Friday (27) I helped Paul move into his new house in Bujagali. He is living with Mama Flo...she is a wonderful independent single mother of three. She has her own little business where she sells things that her and other women have made (jewelry, purses, etc) and also rents out rooms in her house. Paul is paying 70.000 ugs (Ugandan shillings) a week and that includes breakfast and dinner. 70.000ugs ends up being about $28 USD a week. Pretty cheap!! Cheaper than my place in Ndejje. Staying with Mama Flo is a woman about my age named Chichillia (not sure on spelling) from Italy. She is volunteering with S.O.F.T Power Education which is a group of different schools that were build with profits from NRE.

Innocent and his brother (they live at Mama Flos)

Innocent in Paul's kayak gear

    Over the weekend there were many overland trucks that came to NRE and I was able to go rafting and tubing with Paul. The Victorian Nile River (I thought it was the White Nile) is crazy different than California white water!! There are HUGE features and HUGE waves and HUGE eddy lines. It was so much fun. I actually enjoyed swimming; it was warm and deep! Alex (one of the guides) even let me guide a couple of rapids - - it was tons of fun.

       I met a couple of school girls on a walk home to Mama Flo's and made a play date to help them with their homework that night. They stopped over to pick me up and brought me avocado, mango, and maize. It was only able to spend a brief about of time with them, but it was great and gave me even more to look forward to :)

Paul and I when I went tubing

    I got a cell phone and called my director Jacques Bwira to set up when and where I would be picked up to begin my project with him in Ndejje. I am in Kampala (the capital city) now waiting for Jacques to pick me up. I have been studying French nearly everyday preparing for my project. I decided that I also want to implement an Environmental Education class into HoPE Primary School so I have been working on the class outline for that. I brought my French 1&2 textbook and I will use that as my outline for teaching basic French to the refugee students. As for the English classes, I think I will just have to see where everyone is at in their proficiency and literacy levels. I read a book about a student who came to Uganda to teach for a month and he had the students write an essay to start. He corrected the essays and taught his English lessons based off of the mistakes made in the papers. That sounded like a great way to start and I think I will base my lessons off of that.

    I am looking forward to getting to Ndejje and meeting everyone in the community. Jacques should be here in 4 hours, but Africa time tells me he will be here in about 5 1/2 :) I don't know when I will have access to the internet next...But I do know that I feel mentally and physically prepared for the greatest experience of my life.

The next chapter begins...

After 16 months of planning and preparation my hard work and the help of others has finally paid off; I'm on my way back to Africa and on my way to saving the world.

Today marks the first page in a new chapter of my life. I wouldn't be where I am right now (waiting in the San Fransisco Airport for my flight to Uganda) without the help of my friends, family, and other supporting organizations. Much appreciation is given to them.

I will be traveling throughout East and West Africa from May 23rd 2011 until January 5th 2012.
My plans are not concert, but will revolve around a plan similar to this one.

As some of you may know, my boyfriend Paul Gamache is currently in Jinja, Uganda working as a Manager for Zen Tubing on the White Nile. Upon arrival I will spend my first week with him and meet up with my director, Jacques Bwira, on June 3rd.
From June until August I will be working in a small community comprised of refugees from surrounding countires (Rwanda, Burundi, and mostly the Democratic Republic of Congo[DRC]) in Ndejje, Uganda just outside the capital city Kampala. I will know more once I spend time in the community but from my understanding...there is a community center where children and adults have access to some vocational training, sports activities and equipment, etc. There is also a tailor shop where many of the refugee parents work together to form the Kamba Cooperative  in hopes of putting their children through the local school: Helping People of Ethnicities (HoPE) Primary School. HoPE Primary School  aims at making sure refugee children have access to free education and community support. This is where I plan to spend most of my time. I plan to teach English, French, Math, Science and other subjects that may be available. HoPE is the first and only primary school for refugees that is OUTSIDE of a refugee camp in Uganda. Jacques Bwira is the founder and has went though extraordinary efforts to pass the gift of education.

In August I am taking a couple weeks off to safari in Kenya and Tanzania where I will meet up with Killerai Munka Killerai, an old friend of mine who took my on safari 4 years ago when I first traveled to Africa. I also plan to visit Mosho Village, Tanzania where I helped build a school for the village. Paul, our friend Rito, and I plan to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro and also spend some time on the East Coast of Kenya on the Indian Ocean.

For the month of September I will return to Ndejje and continue my work in active peace building activities throughout the community.

I have a flight on October 9th that will take my from Uganda to Senegal. I am going to spend some time in The Gambia and Senegal studying, relaxing, and most importantly: working on my French while taking in the beautiful cultures around me.
Then I am teaming up with Intrepid Travel to continue my travels through West Africa. I will be visiting Senegal, The Gambia, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, and Cameroon between October 22nd and December 29th 2011.

Paul is meeting my in Ghana and will continue on to Cameroon with me.

We plan to spend New Years in Cameroon and then I will depart from Douala, Cameroon on Jan 5th and return to Arcata, CA.

In these 7-8months I will be taking Independent/Directed Study classes through Humboldt State. I was able to devise my own lesson plan and apply the classes to my major (International Studies-[Anti]Globalization) and minor (French and Francophone Studies)

These are the classes I will be working on while abroad:

(International Experience/Culminating Project Requirment-4 credits)

Course Description/Requirements: Toni will keep a descriptive written and photo journal documenting all major experiences while staying in Ndejje, Uganda. During her stay she will be required to make connection with HSU coursework while synthesizing and integrating previously acquired knowledge. She will fully develop these connections through educational excursions, research on Uganda (including interviews with Uganda nationals, refugees, development workers, etc) and any other relevant forms. All pertinent information will be collaborated and she will write a 20-25 page paper (with bibliography) that Noah Zerbe will read and evaluate. This paper will specifically address the refugee crisis in Uganda with an emphasis on sources and root causes of conflict in the Great Lakes area of Central Africa, migration and refugee issues/problems, as well as active peace-building activities in Ndejje and other refugee communities in Uganda.

(French 5/French Proficiency-4credits)

Course Description/Requirements: While volunteering and studying with French speaking Congolese refugees in Ndejje, Uganda, Toni will read six short stories (listed on the French 311 syllabus). By using her critical and creative thinking skills, she will turn in an essay on the six stories that will show her comprehension of the readings, grammatical correctness, and proficiency in the French language. During her stay in Ndejje, Toni will also be taking French lessons from the Congolese in the community which will give an intensive reexamination of the French grammar and usage in Francophone texts while using all four language skills (oral, writing, reading, and comprehension). This will also meet course goals such as: appreciation for and understanding of an expanded world perspective by engaging respectfully with a diverse range of individuals, communities, and viewpoints and will prepare me to purse social justice, promote environmental responsibility, and improve economic conditions in workplaces and communities. 

(Francophone West African Studies-4credits)

Course Description/Requirements: Throughout her travels in West Africa (Senegal, Ghana, Togo, Benin, and Cameroon), Toni will be exposed to the beautiful complexity of the contemporary Francophone world. She will examine different themes within the diverse cultures of West Africa and recognize the interconnectedness of various religious, political, and ethnic groups throughout the area. While studying the rich heritage of the area, Toni will compose five papers at five pages each written in French that focus on: 1) Slave trade in collective consciousness, visiting the three major African slave ports in Ghana, Senegal and Benin; 2) Language politics and development throughout the five countries; 3) Comparative analysis of the role of women in the recession in Francophone West Africa; 4) Environmental politics throughout in all five countries and; 5) West African music, rhythms, and storytelling as a form of preservation of traditions and culture. Toni will meet with scholars, artists, dancers, musicians, painters, sculptors, weavers, writers, and other in-country experts of all classes to conduct interviews and other relevant activities. 

After this experience I will begin my application for the Peace Corps and return to HSU to finish my coursework in the Spring of 2012 semester. 

Goodbye Ceremony: Tanzania, You will be missed.

 

07/27/07

Today is one of our last days in Moshono Village. We spend the day relaxing and spending time with the locals.  Here is the school:  

The "Mums" who cooked/cleaned for us while we stayed in Moshono.

Bob (security guard) showed us to his house...

How neat! They work out in TZ too!

Bob, his wife, and oldest daughter.

07/28/07
Moshono Primary school has scheduled a "Goodbye Ceremony" for us. The children sang many songs thanking us for our work, and did beautiful traditional dances for us.

 

This video isnt the best quality, but it sums up the ceremony:

Ronald! The little boy whom I paid for to finish school.

They had a lunch/dinner prepared for us in one of the classrooms.

Saying goodbye to Jescar.

Here is Bob and his daughter Brigetta, she was a dancer.

Mount Kilimanjaro form the airplane on the way home.

 It was great to finally get home and see the friends and family I had missed while abroad. But nothing beats sleeping under a net and waking up at 5am every morning to The Call to Prayer. My heart is still in Africa, and I will do whatever it takes to get back.

CLiCK CLiCK! Then off to Eden's Garden...

07/24/07
It was super super hot outside today and I loved it. First we had breakfast then walked with our Hadza friends to their tribal area. Then we watched Sigwaz kill a Rock Hyrax and we all ate it later.

Sigwaz shoting the Rock Hyrax with his homemade wooden bow&arrow

In order to cook the Rock Hyrax, we had to start a fire- which Sigwaz showed me how to to do without matches. Awesome! 

Starting the fire!

There is the Rock Hyrax cooking in the fire I started-- fur and all!

We got to climb a Baobab tree today! It was easier than it sounds...they put little wood pegs in there for us Muzungos

Almost there...

I MADE IT!

 Then we got some honey from sting-less bees (the best honey I have ever had). The Hadza use honey to trade with other local tribes in the area.

A member of the tribe found this and climbed the tree to get some.

After lunch we made some awesome arrows with the tribe. Mine ended up getting taken in customs coming back to the U.S. even though I claimed it :(

Testing out my archery skills with my new arrow!

We tried Impala stew with Ugali for dinner and it was amazing! Yummy! Oh and I ate cooked and uncooked roots with the Hadza women. They tasted like dirt.  

 The "click click" language is called Hadzane. The language is said to be "un-writable" because it has clicks which you cannot write, but, Sigwaz wrote like a ton of words in Monica's journal after we danced and sang with them.

Hadza tribes men showing us how to get down!

Monica and I joined in the dancing festivities.

 07/25/07

Sigwaz and I saying goodbye!

Today we left the Hadza tribe :( but not as quickly as we thought…our car wouldn’t start so the Hadza men pushed us to try to pop it into gear but that didn’t work. So then Killer fixed some stuff and it was all good.

They don't have "smog tests" in TZ, thats for sure!

Sigwaz asked for my email so I gave it to him - I will be surprised if he emails me. We drove all day to the Ngorongoro Crater. (aka 8^th wonder of the world) its also called “the garden of Eden." 
Killer bought us sugar cane from the side of the road! It was yummy!

Ella, Mon, Carson, me and Melissa at the Ngorongoro Head Office
(kind of like check in for visiters)

Ngorongoro Crater :)

The campsite was filthy crowded and smelly. Way too many people.

 07/26/07
Today so far… we went to the inside of the crater and woke up at 4:30am. Absolutely stunningly beautiful! We saw hippos and hen a million other animals that we had already seen. Then while leaving Alex and Killer had to help out a vehicle that was stuck. They pretty much saved their lives. Jo=Come.  

Hippos!

It was very, very cold.

rolling hills in the crater

Zebra! My favorite!

A mother and her two cubs.

Alex and Killer saving the day!

 Now we are on our way to go home to Moshono.

Mon, Killer, T-Bone!

** This is where my journal ends. The rest of the blog is from my memories **