Trans West Africa: Senegal, Gambia and Mali

Finally, a year later, I've decided to wrap up the final months of my adventure in Africa.

Here are my excuses, please forgive me: While in West Africa the internet was much much more scarce than in East Africa, the days spent traveling from place to place were much longer (10-14 hours drive days 1-3x/week). On top of all that I had tons of homework: write three 5-page papers for my West African Francophone Culture class; read 6 Francophone stories then a final 5 page essay for French 5. Upon returning home I started my last semester of my undergraduate studies and things have been crazy since then. Procrastination is not a friend of mine. But like my Dad says, "Better late than never!"

Senegal

Senegal was one of my favorite places. I will never ever forget my 2 weeks in Yoff (Dakar).

View of Yoff from a friend, Gora Diagne's rooftop.

A friend of mine, Scarlet, had studied in Dakar a few months before I arrived. She hooked me up with two contacts while I was there. One, Abdul Aziz had his own hotel and picked me up from the airport and I stayed at his place for the remainder of my time. Besides wanting to marry me and not understanding the fact that I had a boyfriend whom I love very much, he was a wonderful friend/guide. If it weren't' for him, I'm not sure how I would have gotten around. My French was terrible, and not many people spoke English.

Lac Rose- Known for and named after its pink color caused by the algae. Lac Rose is a natural phenomena north-east of Dakar. The lake also has a very high salt content which contributes to the  small salt exporting industry in the area.

Salt Fishing!

Île de Gorée- Small island off the coast of Dakar, inhabited but also a major attraction because of it's slave port/slave trade history.

View from the highest point.

Alleys of Gorée

Île de N'gor- A beautiful tiny island paradise, only 10min boat ride and 4$ away! 

Written on the walls- "If money grew on trees, women would be monkeys."

African Renaissance Monument- Completed in 2010 and now the worlds largest statue, it is said to be a positive representation of the African people. A family that is holding together strongly, emerging from a mountain top breaking their chains of slavery and becoming free. That being said, every Senegalese I spoke with did not agree with the statue and were actually very against it. Senegal is 95% Muslim, and Islam does not approve of statues (according to my those I spoke with in Senegal and research). Also, nearly 40% of the population lives on less than $1.25 a day and the statue cost a whopping 27million dollars!! They have a new president now a days...

My friend Aziz also took me to his brothers wedding while I was in town - that was fun! Everyone was so friendly and generous in Senegal.

Djibi was the other friend she gave me contact information on. Djibi is a griot drummer and took me out a couple nights on the town. He spoke fluent Wolof and broken French with a West African accent. I speak fluent English with very broken limited French with a shitty Spanish/American accent - needless to say communication was very difficult.

Ndep

In short, a Ndep is an exorcism. But it is much much more than that...it's a traditional ceremony which is held 2 times a day for 5-7 days. It is usually performed on young women who, I was told are most susceptible to being possessed by a wrab. A wrab is a misguided spirit and Yoff Village (where I stayed) was full of these spirits. Friends told me that the spirits were more active and more dangerous during the day time, and that they often leech onto girl's/women's long hair and seep into their body that way.

Sabar

On our way to the Ndep, we stopped at a Sabar. Similar to a small dance party on the sandy alley way, several women were dressed up to celebrate and dance as they shook their bodies to the beat of the Griot Drummers. Those women were vibrant with energy! Sabars are also very hush-hush and frowned upon. The women dance provocatively and that sort of behavior is frowned upon in Islam.

My fondest memories of Senegal will be:

Tea with Issa Ndiaye

Eating meals together - sadly I didn't snap a photo, but for every meal I ate with a family, we would all use our right hands (not left hand because is considered dirty) to dig into one large bowl full of a variation of grain and some sort of local fish. It was beautiful... even when the 5 year old would cough/sneeze all over her hands and the food and we all just kept eating like nothing happened.

The kind, generous and welcoming Senegalese - Everyone was amazing and so friendly. Especially with trying to speak French and their local language, Wolof. I would always get a 'mini lesson' in the middle of the street.

Les pâtisseries - BEST. PASTRIES. AND. BREAD. EVER. 

Greeting: As-salamu alaykum - Peace be upon you

Response: Alaykum Salamu - Peace to you also (not exact but pretty much)

Before I knew it, it was time for me to meet with my group that I would be traveling with for the next 70 days.

 

The first night I met with my group, Dulcie, Bex and I went to see Youssou N'Dour perform at his very own night club in Dakar!! We showed up around 11:30pm, but he didnt take the stage until nearly 2AM!! We had to be up, packed, and ready to go on the bus at 5:30AM. We stayed for over an hour, but left much before his set was over. It was incredible. Best vibes I have ever felt at a show...the crowd, his people, loved him! I didn't bring a camera, but here are some videos. 

This is the song that made him famous...

 

This is one of my favorites...

Saint Louie- An old colonial French city located at the mouth of the Senegal River. Very relaxed atmosphere, beautiful buildings, and lots of modern art.

 

Spent 2 nights in Palmarin.

Into the Gambia* then back to Senegal.

Niokolo-Koba National Park

The Gambia 

*Because of the location of The Gambia (completely surrounded by a pac-man shaped Senegal) we drove out of Senegal into the Gambia, and then back through Senegal on the way to Mali.

Known as "The Smiling Coast" and also a popular destination for rich sugar mamas to find a sweet young African man.

 

Kiang West National Park on a pirogue in the mangroves.

Stayed in Tandaba and Basse Santu-Su.

Mali

***While camping at a hotel in Bamako, we met a small group of travelers. Two Dutch on moto-bikes, a South African and a German. At the time, not a big deal, not significant at all. They were traveling together towards Timbuktu, a city that was on our itinerary, but changed for security reasons. About 2 weeks later we read the headlines of "Mali Kidnapping" and went on to read about a group of tourist, two Dutch and one South African who were kidnapped and a German man killed for resisting the attack in Timbuktu. We believe that group was the group we met in Bamako was the group that was kidnapped. In fact, after doing some research today trying to see if they were ever released, I found this video update and am sure it was them.***
 

Sunset over the Niger River

We bush camped and then stayed in Bamako, Mali's capital, for two nights. The nightlife was said to be some of the best in West Africa, but I think we went out on a 'dead' night.  

Just being kids...

Mandingue Country Trek- We trekked through villages meeting many local people. This area is the birth place of the Mali Empire. Many hills, waterfalls and very beautiful people. 

5-star bush camp

Our holiday goat.

 
We also celebrated Tabaski- a holiday celebrated ~70 days after Ramadan. Each family buys and sacrafices a goat. 1/3 of the goat stays with the family to eat, 1/3 goes to neighbors and friends, and 1/3 goes to the poor, needy and elderly.

Nomadic man from the Tuareg tribe

African Transport: there is always room for more.

. b e a u t y . j o y .

Segou- On the banks of the Niger River, and home to the amazing Festival of the Niger, Segou is also home to the infamous mud cloth. I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to attend a workshop learning all about the process. The process is traditionally called Bògòlanfini. First the Malian cotton fabric is died (yellow, red or blue) using different natural occurring elements (indigo, tree leaves). After the clothe dries, fermented mud is used to paint symbols onto the cloth. They also use a soap bleach to paint white.