Nigeria
The worlds most corrupt country yet it's full of the worlds most beautiful people.
We anticipated trouble at the border, and we were right! Instead of entering near Lagos and having to drive through Africa's largest city, we took a more northern route and went through a much smaller border town. The officers accused all of us of having fraudulent Nigerian Visas and said that they were not in order. My visa said that it was valid for entry until Dec 10th which was the day we entered. I noticed this date while in Bamako, Mali and went to the Nigerian embassy there. They assured me that I would be able to enter on Dec 10th but not a day after. But, the officers at the border told me that it had expired. There was no getting around this one. After sitting in the dingy border crossing station, I was summoned by a few officers. They told me I had to talk to their commander. Alone, I followed them down a dark hallway, out of the building and through some tall grass. We entered a house, it was the commander's house. He was sitting on his couch, in his whitey-tities, watching television. I was mortified and terrified. As I sat small in a chair I began to think of all the things that could happen to me. My mind raced. He asked me, "What seems to be the problem miss?" I went on to explain the trouble I was having...my visa entry date says Dec 10th, I double checked at the Nigerian embassy in Mali to make sure it was valid. He then asked me to stay with him and be his friend, I politely declined. After a bribe of $30 and a paper beaded necklace from Uganda, I was allowed to enter the country. The rest of the group for the OK to enter, and we drove on to Abeokuta on the Ogun River.
Then we started our 3 day trip towards Abuja, the capital city.
Osun Sacred Forest
Bush camping was beautiful. Driving was horrendous.
In Abuja, we camped in the back of a Sheraton Hotel! Abuja was huge and had a great market. I got a lot of gifts there, and even stunning abstract painting!!!
View from our campsite in the back of the hotel.
There were speculations about safety before we even entered Nigeria (a
lot of fighting caused by extreme Muslim groups calling for Sharia law). Our plan was to head north towards Jos and Yankari National Park, but after reading about the recent bombings we changed our mind and headed towards the Afi Mountains early.
An important habitat for wildlife, this fantastic wildlife sanctuary protects a number of threatened and endangered species, including the rare Cross River Gorilla and Drill Monkey. Check out how cool they look:
What gorgeous animals! We left the Drill Ranch Moneky Sanctuary and headed towards Calabar. Calabar wasn't on out itinerary, but since we didn't go to Jos and Yankari National Park we had extra time. Calabar is in the Cross River State (very south) and was a very lively city. Paul and I walked around all day! We spent 2 days there, I even got some clothes made for me. I was able to check out a little bit of the famous "Calabar Festival" that is an annual holiday type celebration (for an entire month!!) Calabar is one place I would love to go back to in Nigeria...it didn't have the craziness and unwariness of other cities in the country.
Leaving Nigeria in the dust, we headed out on the infamous Cameroonian Jungle road....
Cameroon Thank goddess we were traveling during the dry season, because this road is impassable during parts of the year. Pictures won't do justice, there were pot holes larger than our truck! We had to drive in and drive out of the pot holes. I could stand in them, and they were over my head!!
Cameroon also has some of the most amazing tropical rainforest in Africa and this gives a perfect insight into how quickly the rainforests of the world are being destroyed. Deforestation is happening faster here than in the Amazon Jungle.
Paul on an early morning hike on the Jungle Road.
During our trip, the Chinese were in the middle of building a tarmac highway from Nigeria to Cameroon so that this jungle road could be avoided. After many nights of bush camping we finally arrived in the beautiful beach town of Limbe. We camped in the parking lot of Seme Beach Hotel, they even had a spa! Paul and Rito climbed Mount Cameroon (Largest mountain in West Africa, 5th tallest in all of Africa). I watched from the ocean :)
Moving on via Douala, we went to Kribi, another beach town, for Christmas.
Merry Christmas (palm tree with gifts)!
Our group trip was over, but our flight didn't leave for another couple of weeks, we we went back to Limbe to relax on the beach and explore a bit more. One afternoon, Paul and I went to the Limbe Wildlife Center which has connections with the Drill Ranch Moneky Sanctuary in the Afi Mountains of Nigeria. It was much smaller, but much more easily accessible for visitors. Inside of the wildlife center, I saw a sign for "milkshakes"! I thought...milkshakes!? IN AFRICA!? I'm in!! It was here, at ARNE's Restaurant in Limba, Cameroon, that Paul and I met owners Ryan and Erika, who would be bringing us back to Cameroon on our next adventure in 2013.
As we cruised through dusty Mali bush-camping along the way, we finally hit the southern boarder with Burkina Faso. Another bush-camp, a full day of driving, and road construction (resulting in an even longer detour) we finally arrived in Ouagadougou [wa - ga - do - go] the capital!
Almost there, kind of....
Ouaga, as its commonly refereed to, was a very bustling city. Like Bamaka, Mali, it is known for its night life and great food! We moved on to Bobo-Dioulasso - they had a fabulous market! I bought fabric, sandals and found a couple of tailors to make a few outfits for my nephews. I also had a tunic altered (it was originally a little kids dress) and some pants fixed!
Heading further south, we stopped in Banfora to do some market/food shopping. We camped outside the city and did a short waterfall hike. It was dry season, so the waterfall was smaller than usual. An impassable road lead us to turn around and find a different route to the waterfal, but it was worth it - quite relaxing and beautiful!
We swam in the pool above!
Ghana
If Ghana was a french speaking country I think it would have been my favorite!! Very diverse and lots of bight and vibrant people and colors.
Women pounding millet at a market near the Burkina Faso/Ghana border.
After a night of bush camping we arrived at Mole National Park in Northern Ghana. Although West Africa isn't as full of animals as East Africa is, we still managed to see plenty of animals with a fraction of the amount of tourists you see in East Africa.
Below, an elephant is submerging itself in a small pond in the Park. They do this to keep cool. But, this elephant never resurfaced after it went under. They say elephants know when they are going to die, and they usually go to be alone. This one chose to go into the pond. The following day, they had to remove the elephant from the pond with big chains and a tractor.
The Larabanga Mosque - Oldest mosque in West Africa, Sudanic style built in the 15th -16th century.
At the Baobeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary
Kintampo Waterfall - a popular hang out and swimming spot for the locals
The largest market in West Africa is located in Kumasi, Ghana. Kumasi is the capital of the current Ashanti region and has also been the historic capital of the Ashanti Kingdom (pre-colonial). Kumasi was a great city with excellent food and many things to do.
I separated from the group in Kumasi and headed to Accra to meet up with the love of my life Paul and our friend Rito. Coincidentally a friend of ours was studying abroad in Accra at the time we were there. We met up with him and got a small tour of campus.
View of the city from the top of University of Accra.
We met back up with the group and moved towards the Togolese boarder and spent a night at Keta Beach hotel.
Rito, Paul and I took an early morning hike to Fort Prinzenstein, another slave port.
Fisherman had been working hard since 2am.
Togo
Togo is a magical sliver of a country. Over 50% of Togolese follow indigenous beliefs (voodoo) and the country is comprised of 37 different ethnic groups!
On the ride to Mount Klouto
Taking a break from a hike for some splashing fun!
Leaving Mount Klouto we headed to Agbodrafo which lies on the shores of Lake Togo. We took a dugout canoe across the lake to visit Togoville, the voodoo capital of West Africa. We missed the Fetish Market but heard all about the crazy things they sell there.
Check out this video of a fetish market to learn more:
Kissing Togo behind heading East towards Benin
Benin Similar in size and shape, Benin is takes Voodoo very seriously as it is an officially recognized religion. The first two nights we stayed on the beach in Grand Popo. We had a beautiful view...
Paul met a few locals who invited us to a local show and a bar/restaurant just down the beach. It was fabulous!! Great music and an even greater atmosphere. After playing inside the bar, they moved to the beach for some more jamming. The following night we went to a voodoo Watchman Ceremony (see photo below). The village believes that these spirits (pictured spinning below) will protect them. There was a lot of spinning, dancing and drums.
We spent a short time in the city of Ouidah stopping at Temples des Pythons:
Paul was a little scared to get that close :)
From here we moved to one of the most facinaing places I have ever been. Ganvie Village on Lake Nokoue: a village built on stilts in the 16th century by the Tofinu people. Established on the lake because the Dahomey's (a slave trading tribe) religion forbade their warriors from entering water, therefore it was a haven to escape the slave trade. A stunning and very unique place.
House on stilts: approximately $1,400
I'm not sure how this worked out but not only was my beloved Aunty Patty was traveling through West Africa at the exact same time I was, but we were also able to randomly meet up! We had planned to see each other in Cotonou, but I wasn't going to be able to make it because my group was leaving earlier than planned. After we got back from Ganvie, we did out market shopping. I saw a small white tour bus looking vehical and though of my Aunty. Next thing I know I saw a group of white tourist walking towards it. I jumped out of my seat on the bus and took a closer look...THERE SHE WAS!! I leaped off the bus yelling "AUNTY PATTY!!"
Aunty Patty, me and Paul :)
Abomey is the ancient capital of the Dahomey kingdom, once one of the most powerful empires in Africa. Here, we walked around the dusty city and saw many preserved homes of previous Dahomey Kings.
Finally, a year later, I've decided to wrap up the final months of my adventure in Africa.
Here are my excuses, please forgive me: While in West Africa the internet was much much more scarce than in East Africa, the days spent traveling from place to place were much longer (10-14 hours drive days 1-3x/week). On top of all that I had tons of homework: write three 5-page papers for my West African Francophone Culture class; read 6 Francophone stories then a final 5 page essay for French 5. Upon returning home I started my last semester of my undergraduate studies and things have been crazy since then. Procrastination is not a friend of mine. But like my Dad says, "Better late than never!"
Senegal
Senegal was one of my favorite places. I will never ever forget my 2 weeks in Yoff (Dakar).
View of Yoff from a friend, Gora Diagne's rooftop.
A friend of mine, Scarlet, had studied in Dakar a few months before I arrived. She hooked me up with two contacts while I was there. One, Abdul Aziz had his own hotel and picked me up from the airport and I stayed at his place for the remainder of my time. Besides wanting to marry me and not understanding the fact that I had a boyfriend whom I love very much, he was a wonderful friend/guide. If it weren't' for him, I'm not sure how I would have gotten around. My French was terrible, and not many people spoke English.
Lac Rose- Known for and named after its pink color caused by the algae. Lac Rose is a natural phenomena north-east of Dakar. The lake also has a very high salt content which contributes to the small salt exporting industry in the area.
Salt Fishing!
Île de Gorée- Small island off the coast of Dakar, inhabited but also a major attraction because of it's slave port/slave trade history.
View from the highest point.
Alleys of Gorée
Île de N'gor- A beautiful tiny island paradise, only 10min boat ride and 4$ away!
Written on the walls- "If money grew on trees, women would be monkeys."
African Renaissance Monument- Completed in 2010 and now the worlds largest statue, it is said to be a positive representation of the African people. A family that is holding together strongly, emerging from a mountain top breaking their chains of slavery and becoming free. That being said, every Senegalese I spoke with did not agree with the statue and were actually very against it. Senegal is 95% Muslim, and Islam does not approve of statues (according to my those I spoke with in Senegal and research). Also, nearly 40% of the population lives on less than $1.25 a day and the statue cost a whopping 27million dollars!! They have a new president now a days...
My friend Aziz also took me to his brothers wedding while I was in town - that was fun! Everyone was so friendly and generous in Senegal.
Djibi was the other friend she gave me contact information on. Djibi is a griot drummer and took me out a couple nights on the town. He spoke fluent Wolof and broken French with a West African accent. I speak fluent English with very broken limited French with a shitty Spanish/American accent - needless to say communication was very difficult.
Ndep
In short, a Ndep is an exorcism. But it is much much more than that...it's a traditional ceremony which is held 2 times a day for 5-7 days. It is usually performed on young women who, I was told are most susceptible to being possessed by a wrab. A wrab is a misguided spirit and Yoff Village (where I stayed) was full of these spirits. Friends told me that the spirits were more active and more dangerous during the day time, and that they often leech onto girl's/women's long hair and seep into their body that way.
Sabar
On our way to the Ndep, we stopped at a Sabar. Similar to a small dance party on the sandy alley way, several women were dressed up to celebrate and dance as they shook their bodies to the beat of the Griot Drummers. Those women were vibrant with energy! Sabars are also very hush-hush and frowned upon. The women dance provocatively and that sort of behavior is frowned upon in Islam.
My fondest memories of Senegal will be:
Tea with Issa Ndiaye
Eating meals together - sadly I didn't snap a photo, but for every meal I ate with a family, we would all use our right hands (not left hand because is considered dirty) to dig into one large bowl full of a variation of grain and some sort of local fish. It was beautiful... even when the 5 year old would cough/sneeze all over her hands and the food and we all just kept eating like nothing happened.
The kind, generous and welcoming Senegalese - Everyone was amazing and so friendly. Especially with trying to speak French and their local language, Wolof. I would always get a 'mini lesson' in the middle of the street.
Les pâtisseries - BEST. PASTRIES. AND. BREAD. EVER.
Greeting: As-salamu alaykum - Peace be upon you
Response: Alaykum Salamu - Peace to you also (not exact but pretty much)
Before I knew it, it was time for me to meet with my group that I would be traveling with for the next 70 days.
The first night I met with my group, Dulcie, Bex and I went to see Youssou N'Dourperform at his very own night club in Dakar!! We showed up around 11:30pm, but he didnt take the stage until nearly 2AM!! We had to be up, packed, and ready to go on the bus at 5:30AM. We stayed for over an hour, but left much before his set was over. It was incredible. Best vibes I have ever felt at a show...the crowd, his people, loved him! I didn't bring a camera, but here are some videos.
This is the song that made him famous...
This is one of my favorites...
Saint Louie- An old colonial French city located at the mouth of the Senegal River. Very relaxed atmosphere, beautiful buildings, and lots of modern art.
Spent 2 nights in Palmarin.
Into the Gambia* then back to Senegal.
Niokolo-Koba National Park
The Gambia
*Because of the location of The Gambia (completely surrounded by a pac-man shaped Senegal) we drove out of Senegal into the Gambia, and then back through Senegal on the way to Mali.
Known as "The Smiling Coast" and also a popular destination for rich sugar mamas to find a sweet young African man.
Kiang West National Park on a pirogue in the mangroves.
Stayed in Tandaba and Basse Santu-Su.
Mali
***While camping at a hotel in Bamako, we met a small group of travelers. Two Dutch on moto-bikes, a South African and a German. At the time, not a big deal, not significant at all. They were traveling together towards Timbuktu, a city that was on our itinerary, but changed for security reasons. About 2 weeks later we read the headlines of "Mali Kidnapping" and went on to read about a group of tourist, two Dutch and one South African who were kidnapped and a German man killed for resisting the attack in Timbuktu. We believe that group was the group we met in Bamako was the group that was kidnapped. In fact, after doing some research today trying to see if they were ever released, I found this video update and am sure it was them.***
Sunset over the Niger River
We bush camped and then stayed in Bamako, Mali's capital, for two nights. The nightlife was said to be some of the best in West Africa, but I think we went out on a 'dead' night.
Just being kids...
Mandingue Country Trek- We trekked through villages meeting many local people. This area is the birth place of the Mali Empire. Many hills, waterfalls and very beautiful people.
5-star bush camp
Our holiday goat.
We also celebrated Tabaski- a holiday celebrated ~70 days after Ramadan. Each family buys and sacrafices a goat. 1/3 of the goat stays with the family to eat, 1/3 goes to neighbors and friends, and 1/3 goes to the poor, needy and elderly.
Nomadic man from the Tuareg tribe
African Transport: there is always room for more.
. b e a u t y . j o y .
Segou- On the banks of the Niger River, and home to the amazing Festival of the Niger, Segou is also home to the infamous mud cloth. I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to attend a workshop learning all about the process. The process is traditionally called Bògòlanfini. First the Malian cotton fabric is died (yellow, red or blue) using different natural occurring elements (indigo, tree leaves). After the clothe dries, fermented mud is used to paint symbols onto the cloth. They also use a soap bleach to paint white.
